Is the control panel of your Autodose or IonGen exposed to the sun? Did you know that after time, this will cause the panel to be unreadable? Leaving electrical pond equipment out in the elements shortens their lifespan. Rain, sun, snow, and harsh weather can be detrimental to the control panel’s function.
In order to protect your equipment from atmospheric agencies, try hiding them! There are artificial landscape rocks and stumps that can look a heckuva lot like the real thing. Faux rocks come in a variety of shapes, styles, and sizes; and they keep your electronics safe without drawing attention away from your curated landscape.
Make sure to measure (twice) the height, width, and depth of the equipment you are looking to cover. Then check out The Pond Guy or stop by and chat with our friends at True Pump to see where and what suits your needs. If you’re having trouble finding what you need, give your favorite backyard pond service a call! Colorado Pond Pros will do our best to point you in the right direction.
So, don’t forget to COVER YOUR POND EQUIPMENT to protect and preserve it. And because the supply chain has slowed down these days, order your artificial landscape rocks now, so you’re sure to have it for the winter!
Kristi’s Pond Tips
The sensor for your pond lights needs to remain outside the cover, or the lights will remain on all the time. The light sensor must be exposed to the sun in order to shut the lights off during the day.
Some equipment needs to be put away for the winter: the Autodose and IonGen panels will fare better when kept out of the bitter cold.
Remember to bring the liquid bacteria into the house, too. The freezing weather will kill the bacteria!
Have you noticed the water level going down in your feature recently? Remember if you have a long stream, a high waterfall, or a bubbling rock, it could be the wind!
Splashing water can be blown out of the system in these high winds. Give it a few days for the wind to die down, and then see if you are still losing water. If you are, here is a handy guide on how to diagnose a leak.
Diagnosing your water feature—does it have a leak?
Turn off the waterfall for the day or 24 hours (Healthy fish will be okay for this short period of time).
Fill the pond to its normal, full level.
Measure the level of the water in the pond. Measuring is very important! And make sure to measure it from a point that is easy to reach.
Check the water level roughly 24 hours later. Re-measure so you know exactly how many inches of water has been lost overnight.
If the water level didn’t go down at all, the pond is holding water. Now, test the waterfall/stream. Read “Leak Test on The Waterfall Or Stream” below.
If the water did go down, the pond is losing water. Leave the pump off and let it continue to recede until it stops. If you have fish, make sure there is an aerator running. Don’t leave the pump off for more than a few days as the water may start to green up.
Leak test on the waterfall or stream
Do this test if you have first ruled out that the pond losing water.
Leave the pump on.
Measure the level of the water in the pond.
Measure it again in 24 hours.
If the water level in the pond has gone down 1/2″ or more, there is a leak in the waterfall or stream.
What do once water loss has been established
Over 90% of all leaks are from a low liner or folds in the liner allowing water to escape.
Exposing all the liner along the edge of the stream (or pond if the pond was losing water) is a good first step. Pull back the rocks and pull the liner up so that it is obvious water is not getting out.
Do the same leak test again to confirm it is no longer losing water. Once that is confirmed, it can be re-edged.
Re-edging
Re-edging can be difficult. Hiding the liner without causing folds that allow water loss, and making it look good can take some talent!
What if the rocks have concrete between them or there is concrete over the liner?
The freeze and thaw cycle here in Colorado almost ensures that concrete or mortar will eventually crack. If your system is experiencing water loss and there is mortar between the rocks or even concrete over the liner within the pond, it may have to be completely removed to locate the leak.
How do I know it’s not just evaporation?
Evaporation happens all year, and during the hot summer, it may take a little more water out of your system than normal. Are you wondering what is normal?
In Colorado 1 to 3 inches of evaporation within a week is normal. It doesn’t matter how large or small the pond is, 1 to 3 inches of water loss in a week is evaporation.
Leaks can be difficult to diagnose and fix. If you need help contact us and we will send an expert out!
How else can Colorado Pond Pros help you?
We love our jobs and are excited to help you with your backyard pond installation, pond service, and repair! And as the pond experts, we have plenty of advice and info on landscaping as well. Contact us today for help tending to your pond or installing a new one!
The waterfall and pump create water flow and, thus, circulation in your pond. Ideally, the waterfall and skimmer (which houses the pump) are at opposite ends of the pond to create the best and healthiest circulation.
When the waterfall and skimmer (pump) are too close together on one side of the pond (as in the above picture), a dead zone is created.
Identifying dead zones in the backyard pond
If it’s a dead zone, you may notice:
Leaves accumulating.
More algae where there is no circulation.
If you drop a leaf into a stagnant area to see where it goes, you’ll find that it doesn’t really go anywhere.
If you have a dead zone, look at the bright side!
There are things that will help:
Aeration
An aerator in the dead zone will put more oxygen into the space and move the water so that it can join with the rest of the circulation.
Jet Pump
A small pump put directly in the dead zone area will circulate the water.
Plants
Depending on the depth and space of the dead zone area, it may be the perfect place to add plants.
Pro Tips:
If you have a small area of your backyard pond with little circulation, it may be the perfect place for a LOTUS! Lotus don’t like moving water and need to have 1 1/2 to 2 feet of depth.
We don’t! When we build a backyard water feature we work with Mother Nature. We mimic her as best we can by providing the 5 basic elements of a healthy ecosystem.
A healthy ecosystem pond has:
Filtration
We do this through the use of a skimmer to skim off leaves and debris before it sinks to the bottom.
Rocks and gravel
Not pea gravel, and not just cobble, but 3/4″ gravel. This provides the perfect nooks and crannies for beneficial bacteria to colonize and that bacteria consume debris and waste.
Recirculation
This is where the pump comes in. The pump should circulate the total gallons in the pond once an hour. As water comes down the waterfall and stream, oxygen is naturally mixed in.
Fish
Yes! Fish are a part of the ecosystem. They provide nutrients into the water to fertilize the plants as well as consume some of the algae.
Plants
Don’t overlook the best and most magnificent filtration system ever made! Look to nature if you question this. Aquatic plants clean out your water feature by absorbing the nutrients that would otherwise be feeding algae. We know plants help clean the air, they clean water, too—better than any man-made filter.
Pro Tips:
Find a way to add more plants.
When you add plants, take them out of the pot (alright sometimes it’s better to keep a plant potted, like if you want to keep lilies from growing like crazy!) and plant them in crevices or make a shallow area using other rocks and 3/4″ gravel.
If you have a bottom drain pond, keep using it as long as you can keep the pond looking great. When you are ready, let us put in an ecosystem backyard pond for you!
While we don’t think about adding water to the pond as often when it’s cold, it turns out that though water evaporates at a faster rate in high temperatures, it also evaporates in the winter! So don’t neglect to pay attention to the water level in your backyard pond just because it’s cold outside.
Things to remember when adding water to the pond in winter:
The pump always needs plenty of water in order to work properly! If it begins to whine or make strange noises, it may be low on water. Going on too long this way can cause it to burn out.
Water movement over a stream and waterfall oxygenates the water. Dissolved oxygen not only keeps our fish healthy, but it keeps our ecosystem healthy, too. This is true even when there are no fish present.
When a fair amount of water becomes frozen, there is less water left to circulate, therefore the pond may require more.
If there is an adjustable skimmer window on the skimmer, lower it to the lowest setting for the winter. Why? Because when some of the water is frozen into ice, the overall pond level goes down. Lowering the skimmer window opening ensures that you are making the most of the water available to the pump.
Alright, I know most of you know this, but you never know who just moved here from Florida—If you hook up the hose to the house to add water to the pond, make sure to take it off when you are done. Here in Colorado, the spigot can freeze overnight in the winter. When it thaws you may have a broken pipe and flooding in your house!
Do not put the hose on and walk away, potentially forgetting it. If you overfill the pond it can cause several issues—one of them being it could kill all your fish because of the influx of chlorine. Set a timer to go off every 15 minutes to make sure you check the water level.
Do not overfill your pond! The ice will melt, causing the water level to rise when it does.
Not sure what the “full level” is in your pond? A good rule of thumb is to fill it 2 finger-widths BELOW the top of the window opening on the skimmer.
It’s hard to believe that these are pictures of the same pond, but they are! The top picture was taken of our backyard pond in 2018 when it was first built. Then, the photo underneath is of the same pond in September 2021.
Too Many Rocks?
Sometimes when people are having a pond built they get very concerned about the exact look of the rocks. While nice-looking rocks are beneficial, a lush green pond will draw the eyes away from those rocks!
A new pond will look rocky and that is okay! Winter ponds may look rocky, too, but it will also look gorgeous when it snows.
When should you add plants to your pond?
The sooner the better! There are many aquatic plants that will return year after year in Colorado. The United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) has divided the country into different “hardiness zones” or areas with a certain range of “annual minimum temperatures.” Most of Colorado is considered Zone 5 (-20°– -10°F). When purchasing plants, look for plants that thrive in Zone 5 or 4. If they are rated Zone 6 or above, they will not live through the winter here.
The easiest time of year to put in new plants is mid-May. That’s when the aquatic plants come into your local plant nurseries. Annual plants, especially, should be added at this time to get the most enjoyment from them for the season. Although, if you are lucky enough to run into aquatic plants mid-summer or even early September, go ahead and seize the moment! They will die back in the winter but will likely come back beautifully next year.
Invasive plants
Watch out for invasive plants! They can be great natural filters and bring interest to the pond as long as you are aware that you need to keep them in check. Here is a list of invasive plants to keep an eye on:
Water celery
It spreads and spreads, but it also creates a nice lush look. Water celery will produce small white flowers. The flowers can be seen on the left side of the photo above.
Cattails
If you really love cattails, get the miniature ones. They are still large and invasive, but a little less so.
Irises
Yes! If left unchecked irises can spread and get into places that you don’t want them. They are fantastic filters, just keep them from spreading too much.
Bullrush
Bullrush is also a great filter but can get out of hand if left alone. Consider adding them to the pond in a pot.
Pickerel weed
Pickerelweed (also referred to as Pickerel rush) can spread a bit, but it can be removed pretty easily.
Pro Tips:
Find a way to add more plants!
When you add plants, take them out of the pot (sometimes it is better to keep a plant potted, like if you want to keep lilies from going nuts) and plant them in crevices or make a shallow area using other rocks and 3/4″ gravel.
Read the label that comes with the plant and follow those directions.
If you see duckweed (a small, green, aggressive pond invader) on a plant that you have purchased, gently wash it off before adding it to your pond, and pick any leftover duckweed off to keep it out of your pond.
When there is a nearby fire, ash may end up in your pond. There is a difference between forest fire ash and ash from destroyed homes, garages, and businesses. The ash from a forest or grass is natural and will contain high amounts of potassium, but the ash from non-organic material will contain plastics and all sorts of harmful chemicals.
Ash affects ponds in these ways:
It raises the pH of the water
It may create foam
Toxic chemicals in the ash could be detrimental to living creatures in the pond
Debris in the pond (ash or otherwise) can clog equipment
Even if the equipment is not clogged, filter pads can be completely gunked up (Yes, that’s a technical term)
What about the equipment?
It would take A LOT of ash to actually gunk up the pond equipment, but that is certainly possible. If your system has taken on a lot of ash, make sure to pay attention to your equipment. Loud noises, indicating the equipment is struggling, mean that the pond may need to be cleaned out right away.
How does the ash affect water quality?
If there is visible ash settling in the yard, that same amount is ending up in the backyard pond. If the pond water looks sort of like coffee, there is too much ash in that water!
Ash from natural materials, like a forest fire, has a high potassium content. This potassium is a nutrient. If the nutrient load in the water is more than the plants can consume (and it likely would be in the case of a large amount of ash suddenly in the pond), algae will be right there to pick up the slack. I recommend adding extra cold water bacteria to help the situation. Remember that the bacteria is not working at full capacity when water temperatures are below 50 degrees. However, bacteria alone will not fix an ash problem.
If there are no fish in the pond, plan a full cleanout for the pond in the spring, and don’t be surprised if the string algae go nuts between now and then.
Koi and goldfish can be fairly hardy, but adding something unknown to the water that changes water chemistry could be detrimental to the fish. If the ash contaminates the water in the winter you may not see the effects on the fish right away as their metabolisms are much slower in the winter. Remember that it is not just the higher potassium that we need to worry about here. There can be toxic chemicals in the ash as well.
Ash and Fish Health
If there are large amounts of ash, you will need to take action. What is a large amount of ash? Good question. When you see ash in the yard around the koi or gold fish pond and you feel like it is a lot, we consider that a large amount of ash.
Here are some guidelines and to-dos:
The very first thing we do if our pond is inundated with ash is make sure there is plenty of oxygen for the fish! We already have aerators in the pond, but if we didn’t we would add them immediately. If the fish were stressed as the chemical balance of the pond changed, the best thing to do is make sure they have plenty of oxygen.
In the spring or summer, when water temperatures are above 50 degrees, a full cleanout is a good idea.
In the winter (which it is right now!), a complete cleanout is risky for the fish, but so is leaving the ash in there with them! We recommend starting with a partial water change of 20% of the volume unless the ash is so bad that the pond looks like a giant mess. Remember to use a dechlorinator and treat the water with cold water bacteria.
If a cleanout needs to be done, keep in mind that it cannot be done if the temperatures are below roughly 45 degrees. It could kill the fish. While fish MAY get through it just fine, winter stress is difficult for them as they are coldblooded and their immune systems are not really online during the winter. If the pond has to be cleaned out, then it has to, we want you to understand the risks. If you decide the cleanout is the way to go, contact us about our pond cleaning services!
After a water change, test the pH of the water. Healthy pH levels in ponds with fish should be between 6.5 and 8.5. A pH of 9 is too high. Keep in mind that city water from the hose may have a high pH. Testing the hose water for pH lets us know what we are starting with even if we have no control over it.
Keep an eye on fish behavior. When the water temperatures are below 45 degrees they should be at the bottom of the pond not moving very much. If they are gasping at the top of the pond for air, getting sucked into the skimmer, or exhibiting other weird behavior, another water change might have to be done.
We have many clients whose homes are in or near the Marshall fire area. Our hearts go out to anyone who has suffered loss due to this horrible fire!
Winters can be very mild in Colorado when you are on the plains. We are in gardening Zone 5 which means although it gets cold, it doesn’t stay for long. Colorado has over 300 days of sunshine a year and far less snow than most out-of-staters imagine. Though the mountains certainly get more snow than we do on the plains.
That being said, if a pond is 36 inches deep, fish will overwinter in the pond just fine!
Preparation- The Benefits
This winter has produced many challenges thus far, but Colorado Pond Pros has been prepared for each twist and turn! The preparedness within our company proved to be of great benefit. Preparedness in your backyard pond will do the same thing. It ensures that the pond will continue to run and keep the koi and gold fish healthy over the winter. Regular pond maintenance is important for winter pond health. Ignoring the pond completely could lead to issues later in the spring or even in the middle of the winter.
When you know a snow storm is on the way take these basic steps before it hits:
Clean out the skimmer basket—no one wants this getting clogged right in the middle of a storm!
If the fall net is still up, take it down. The heavy snow will cause it to sag right into the pond.
If the Autodose and Iongen are still in, remove them.
If there is beneficial bacteria stored outside, bring it in. Store it somewhere it won’t freeze. If bacteria freezes it dies, rendering it useless!
Take a look at the BioFalls® to make sure it isn’t too full of filter pads, lava rocks, or bio balls. Ice can divert water out so we want to make sure the water level isn’t overly high, causing water to escape over the side. This doesn’t usually happen, but it’s just something to keep an eye on.
Freezing Pipes?
As long as the water is flowing in the waterfall/stream, leave the pump on! Moving water doesn’t freeze—so keep the pipes from freezing. Remember, even if the waterfall is frozen on the top, it is likely running underneath the ice.
Pro Tips:
Evaporation happens in the winter; however, you should not be adding as much water to the system as you were in the summer.
After a month of not adding water, the pond level could be down by as much as 6 inches. If water is needed, make sure to use Detox dechlorinator when you have fish and are adding more than 20% of the pond volume.
Remember, in Colorado the hose must be disconnected from the faucet (spigot) when you are done using it. This is very important as pipes can freeze and rupture if left connected!
Did you have high winds at your place this week? We sure did. In fact, there were areas in Colorado that recorded winds over 100 miles per hour. Boulder had gusts of 104 mph!
As a result, our pump was making some weird noises. Upon inspection, we found that leaves blew into our very clean pond and clogged our skimmer basket. We removed the net recently, not realizing there would be this crazy wind blowing in all sorts of debris. There were newspapers in the pond and branches, too! Not only did we need to clean the skimmer basket but we had to pull the pump out to make sure small debris hadn’t gotten through to clog the pump directly.
We highly recommend checking on your pond!
Remove debris that has blown in like leaves, newspapers, and kiddie pools.
Clean out the skimmer basket or net.
Check to make sure the filter pad isn’t clogged with leaves.
If waterfall flow seems low and the water level is fine, the pump may need to be pulled so the intake can be checked for debris.
Pro Tips:
Remove all leaves from your yard so they don’t blow in!
Put away things like kiddie pools, umbrellas, and other blowable items because you never know when we will get crazy wind!
If you add quite a bit of water (technical term for “20% or more”) remember to use a dechlorinator at the same time to protect your fish. No fish? Then you won’t need a dechlorinator!
We can’t predict when high winds are going to run amok, but we can do what we can to prepare for the chaos.
What is the difference between a pond heater and a de-icer?
Great question!
The “heaters” we talk about, and that are most often referred to when talking about pond winter care, are actually de-icers. They don’t heat up a pond like a hot tub, they just keep a small space from icing over. This is necessary when there are fish present. So though we may say “heater,” we are referring to a pond de-icer.
Note: If there are no fish in your pond, this isn’t something you need to worry about!
(Shown above is the Aquascape de-icer)
The 300-watt Aquascape de-icer has an internal thermostat and only comes on when the water temperature is near freezing. This means it uses less electricity.
One of our favorite features is the light. In the picture above, the red light is on. This indicates that the heating element is on. (From your kitchen window you can tell it’s working!) The blue light indicates the deicer is not currently heating. And if there is no light, then you know the de-icer doesn’t have electricity. (We do wonder why red wouldn’t indicate being off, rather than on, but no one consulted us before the decision was made.)
The heating element stops heating if it is removed from the pond or if there is suddenly no water in the pond (hopefully that never happens). This protects the de-icer and anything near it from damage.
Pool Heaters
There are those who would put a pool heater into a pond. This can be very expensive (imagine the bill for heating a pool all winter long!). The fish will overwinter without a pool-type heater just fine, as long as there is oxygen and the water is deep enough that it doesn’t freeze the fish. (36 inches deep for koi and 24 inches deep for goldfish is plenty)
A picture of one of our koi enjoying himself under the ice last winter…okay, it’s not real…but it’s what we imagine he was doing!
Kristi’s Pond Tips
Plug the de-icer into a different outlet than the pump. That way, if one goes out, the other is still working, taking care of the fish until you can remedy the issue.
Don’t brush the snow off the top of the pond except to keep a hole open. The snow actually insulates the pond, keeping the temperatures warmer and more consistent.
Keep a hose in the house where it is warm. It will make adding water to the system easier midwinter. (Have you ever had to search under the snow for the hose, just to find it won’t work because there is ice inside blocking it? Not fun!)
The word “Winterization” can be confusing. Each pond or water feature needs to be ready for the winter whether they are being shut down or just serviced so they are ready to run for the whole winter. I am going to break it down into “Winter Ready” meaning the feature will be running for the winter and “Winter Shut Down” meaning the feature will NOT be running all winter.
Do you usually run your pond through the winter (meaning you let the pump run)?
Yes? Then the pond needs a Winter Ready visit. What happens in a Winter Ready visit?
Remove the fall net if the leaves have been removed from the yard.
Clean out the skimmer box and filters.
Plants -Cut back brown plants up to 50% of the pond.
Remove UV light to be stored inside – note- MOST UV LIGHTS NEED TO BE REPLACED EVERY YEAR, even if it is stored, it may not work the next year.
Remove, IonGen and Autodose, move to indoor location.
Turn pressure filter setting to winter.
Add cold water bacteria.
Do you usually shut the pond down for the winter?
Then the pond needs a Winter Pond Shut Down.
Remove the pump to be stored where it won’t freeze.
Place aerators in the pond.
Remove the fall net if the leaves have been removed from the yard.
Clean out the skimmer box and filters.
Plants -Cut back brown plants up to 50% of the pond.
Remove UV light to be stored inside – note- MOST UV LIGHTS NEED TO BE REPLACED EVERY YEAR, even if it is stored, it may not work the next year.
Remove, IonGen and Autodose, move to indoor location.
Turn pressure filter setting to winter.
Add cold water bacteria.
All outdoor water features need care in the fall and throughout the winter. When care is taken in Autumn, ponds start off clean and ready to go in Spring. Homeowners can certainly do this themselves, but if you would like assistance just give us a call!
Answer these 5 questions to find out if your backyard pond be run over the winter!
Are there fish, frogs, and other aquatic life in or at the pond?
Is the system currently free from any water loss (besides evaporation)?
Are you going to be home this winter (not gallevanting around the world)?
Is it easy to add water to the pond with a hose in the winter time if it is needed?
Do you love the look of flowing water surrounded by billowy snow?
If you answered YES to all these questions:
Running your feature is the way to go!
Once you decide to run the pump over the winter, make sure you run it continually all season long. Do not turn it off even if it gets really cold. Some people make the mistake of turning the pond pump off at night. This can be catastrophic during freezing temperatures. Moving water (i.e. the water in the pipes) won’t freeze as long as it keeps moving. If you have exposed pipes, the severe cold can cause freezing so covering or insulating them is a good idea.
Running the pumps over the winter helps keep the fish healthy by circulating the oxygenated water. Fish go into a dormant state called “torpor” during the winter. While they are in this state they don’t need to eat and will hardly move at all. They may stay at the very bottom of the pond or in a fish cave where you can’t see them—this is the warmest place in the pond.
Remember that if there is an air stone at the very deepest part of the pond it is bringing in the coldest air to the warmest place fish have. Place aerators on the higher shelves.
If you answered NO to any of these questions:
You may want to consider removing your pump for the winter.
This might be a good decision if it is difficult for you to top off the water when it is needed and if you travel often.
Also, if your system is losing water from the stream or waterfall and you are unable to remedy the issue, turning off the pump may help you get through the winter without worry over water loss.
What if I have fish?
If you have reasons to leave the pump off but there are fish, make sure that you have a floating de-icer to keep a hole open in the ice and aerators in the pond at an upper level. Although circulation is somewhat better, fish can overwinter without the pump running.
We do not recommend running an in-pond pump that merely moves the water without sending it over a stream or waterfall. This does not oxygenate the water and does little more than mix up the warmest and coldest water in the pond.
To put it simply:
Running the pump = Great! But the pond still needs aerators and a de-icer.
NOT running the pump = That’s fine, too! But the pond needs aerators and a de-icer.
Kristi’s Pond Tips
Plug the de-icer (heater) and aerators into a plug separate from the one the pump is plugged into. That way, if the GFCI pops and the pump goes out, the fish still have aeration and an open hole for gas exchange. If the de-icer and the aerators lose electricity you will have a little more time to rectify the situation because the pump is running, providing oxygen and hopefully keeping an area of ice open near the bottom of the waterfalls.
If the skimmer has an adjustable skimmer door, put it at its lowest point over the winter. When the pond ices over, the liquid water level may decrease, starving your pump of water. (This keeps you from having to go out into the cold to lower the skimmer door.)
Keep a hose in the house (where it is warm) to use when you have to add water. This should not happen often, but when ice builds up water may need to be added. Remember: the hose must be detached from the spigot or it can freeze and cause a pipe break, potentially flooding your house!
Switch to cold water bacteria as the pond temperatures reach 50 degrees.
If winter pond care sounds like too much for you, call us! We offer winter pond care so you can keep cozy while the pond stays healthy.
If you’re looking to install an outdoor water feature, we can help! Contact Colorado Pond Pros for residential and commercial installation, renovation, cleanouts, and repairs.Your content goes here. Edit or remove this text inline or in the module Content settings. You can also style every aspect of this content in the module Design settings and even apply custom CSS to this text in the module Advanced settings.